This is a repost from 2010. (I’ve written a poem about this trip, so I thought a repost was in order as background for my newer readers). It’s not the Easter long weekend (but we just had Labour Day long weekend – is that close enough – haha 😉 ). Things have changed since 2010 – my Mum passed away later that year (3rd October) and we’re still waiting for miracles to happen.
An Empty Dubrovnik
It is the Easter long weekend and my thoughts are drifting to things religious. My Mum is a crazy catholic, there is no doubt about it. She is more traditional than the Pope and right up there with Mother Theresa when it comes to devotion and dedication to God. Her rosary beads, scapula and gold crucifix on a chain never leave her person. She worries constantly about her four children who have strayed somewhat from the faith. But that’s another story.
Today I am going down memory lane to a time when I accompanied my mother to the middle of a war zone in the name of God. It was May 1995 and I was single, in my twenties and pretty much a zombie depressive with violent tendencies. My Mum decides that she must go to Bosnia-Herzegovina on a pilgrimage to the town of Međugorje. Problem was the Bosnian war was raging and hundreds of thousands of people had been killed in the conflict.
Why would anyone want to go to Bosnia during the war? Mum explains that Međugorje is a Marion site, a place of miracles similar to the holy site of Lourdes where Our Lady appeared to small children. A place where water from springs has miraculous qualities and can heal all manner of ills. Yeah right I thought, blah, blah, blah.
She must travel to this small village in Bosnia-Herzegovina to receive blessings from Our Lady who appears daily to young visionaries. “Yeah, but why do you have to go this year while the war is full on? ” I asked horrified.
She responds with “Nothing will happen to me or the people of Međugorje as God is protecting the town”.
Yep, I told you she was crazy.
Well, I just had to go with Mum to make sure she didn’t get blown up, and if she did I wanted to get blown up with her. After a very long journey, including two plane flights and a 3 hour bus trip on winding mountainous roads, we arrived at Međugorje, a small non-descript town on flat farming country surrounded by rocky snow covered mountains. The largest building in the town was a cathedral. The only sign of the conflict was the presence of NATO soldiers in the cafes, large rifles at their sides, and the odd tank roaming around town.
The pilgrimage was only for one week but that was long enough. Mum said the rosary about 5 times a day and went to mass twice a day. There was an obligatory trek up neighbouring Mt Crucifix to worship at the foot of a giant white cement cross. I had to literally push Mum up the narrow paths to get there and I still don’t know how she did it. I must admit the views from the top of the mountain were to die for, if you’d pardon the pun. The people were all lovely and I did get caught up in the peace and energy of the place.
However, the war was never far from anyone’s thoughts. At every mass the priests would report on the casualties from the war. One day 3 priests were killed in a nearby village and a town in central Bosnia was destroyed with a reported 5,000 dead.
On our second last day a group of pilgrims, including Mum and I, traveled over the border by bus to nearby Croatia to visit one of the most beautiful cities in the world, Dubrovnik.
The day trip was an eye-opener. We passed through village after village decimated by the war. Lovely old buildings and churches blown to pieces by bombs. There was a bridge that had been totally destroyed. There was a forest near Dubrovnik where nearly every tree had been decapitated by gunfire. We saw a number of tanks travelling the same roads as our bus.
We arrived at Dubrovnik and I immediately fell in love with this ancient walled city with narrow cobbled streets on the crystal waters of the Adriatic Sea. Dubrovnik is one of the world’s great tourist destinations but it was completely empty of tourists, apart from the crazy busload of Catholics. I felt a great sympathy for the locals whose main source of income was money from tourists.
Mum and I walked through the winding streets looking into exquisite gift shops and stopping at a restaurant for a seafood lunch. I was surprised that these places were open but the locals were desperate for trade. Dubrovnik had been this way for some time. One good thing was that the great wall surrounding the city had protected the inhabitants from bombs and sniper fire.
Two days later we returned safely to Brisbane, Australia, much to the relief of Dad. We missed a connecting flight at Bangkok because of a search by customs for drug smugglers and arrived a few hours late. Dad was in a bit of a state, convinced that something had happened to us in Bosnia.
The war in Bosnia ended a few months later.
Mum has been back to Međugorje a couple of times since than and would like to go again but is quite elderly and frail. She also feels, as mothers do, that she has to look after her son, my brother, who has acquired brain-injury, and can’t leave him for any length of time. The irony is that I think the main reason she goes to this little town of miracles is to pray for a miracle for him.
12 thoughts on “An Empty Dubrovnik”
I remember this from the original, and read it again very carefully in case there was a new ending where you are all blown up and go to Heaven. Heaven forbid! We still need you here to not vote for Abbott!
haha – a new ending (are you implying that I make things up – it’s all true Stafford – in fact I omit some of the more controversial aspects to maintain my G rating 😉 ).
That’s incredible! It was the place of one of the most evil atrocities since Hitler’s Germany and you went touristing?!!
Well I wouldn’t exactly call it ‘touristing’ Rog – haha – but yes, my Mum was very motivated to go on the pilgramage (I didn’t realise it was that dangerous until I got home 😉 and my boss gave me a big hug and sigh of relief). I didn’t consider myself a pilgrim – more a bemused bystander.
Not the best place go if depressed. You must miss your mum, Gabe. Does your Dad take care of your brother?
Actually it probably was the best place to go when depressed bluebee – the hard lives the locals lived made me realise how trivial my problems were in comparison – and watching tanks go by was a real heart starter as well. I miss Mum very much – still hard to believe she is gone.
This is an amazing tale. I love that you went with your mother with the intent that if she were to blow up so to would you. Even though I’m not deeply religious I am astounded by the devotion of those who went through war-torn Bosnia to worship.
Thanks Kirstie – there was an amazing assortment of people on the pilgrimage – from people with disabilities to drug addicts to nuns and priests – all searching for hope.
I remember this post well. It affected me a lot at the time. It still does. WOW. You originally posted this in 2010? Time does speed by.
Hasn’t a lot happened since 2010 in the blogosphere Selma – time has flown by and lots of fun had and lots of dramas unfolding 😉
Hi Gabrielle, This is the first time I have read this as we are ‘new’ blogging friends. Thanks for sharing such an emotive story. hugs, Helen
Thanks Helen 🙂